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Soho Sushi and Teppanyaki in Roseville

10/04/2017 01:21PM ● Published by Style

 I consider myself to have better-than–average knife skills for a home cook. I know this because my diced carrots and onions rarely include a fingernail or a julienne of knuckle. But the Iron Chef fantasies abruptly cease when I watch a seasoned professional ply his or her trade. And when that professional is whirling knives and shimmering, pointed meat forks over a superheated flaming surface, it’s a signal to sit back and enjoy the show. Such was the case on my visit to Soho Sushi and Teppanyaki in Roseville. 

I started with the scallop shooter appetizer—tender bay scallops marinating in a martini glass with ponzu, ginger, scallions, sake and sriracha. For some at our table, it seemed a bit…unconventional, but I could have had three more and called the night a success. Fortunately, I sojourned in place for the show.  

Enter the Dragon (I asked our chef his name, and he dropped the “Dragon” nom de plume on me), who let his skills out of the fire on full display for our table of mesmerized spectators; first slicing and dicing his way through the grilled shrimp starter, which was included with our orders. He then proceeded immediately onto the chicken fried rice with egg, in which the egg performed tricks at the skilled hands of the Dragon. 

Everyone was given two bowls containing “yum yum sauce”—a mayonnaise-based condiment—and, my favorite: ginger sauce (you can Google both to make at home). The shrimp and rice were seasoned equally well and cooked spot on. 

While the chef prepared our vegetable sides of zucchini, mushrooms and onions, he continued to dazzle with fire, strobe lights and a flaming onion volcano. I mean, who doesn’t like an alcohol-induced open flame with dinner, right? 

Our entrées started with the steak and lobster hibachi. Seared to medium rare and topped with sizzling garlic butter, the filet mignon was melt-in-my-mouth tender. The lobster—dipped in the aforementioned ginger sauce—was rich, slightly sweet and flavorful. We also tried the Seafoodon (and, no, that’s not a typo). Calamari steak, shrimp and scallops were seared on the flat top with asparagus and other vegetables, then tossed with udon noodles and served in a medium spicy sauce—a seafood lover’s delight for sure. 

As we relaxed and reveled in the show (and our table full of food), I came to the conclusion that Soho is definitely better than so-so.    

Hours:  1-9 p.m. (Sunday), 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. and 4-9 p.m. (Monday-Thursday), 11:30 a.m.-4:30 p.m. and 4-10 p.m. (Friday), 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. (Saturday)

Try This: Rice Balls, SOHO Roll, Melting Albacore, Teriyaki Salmon Bento Box, Steak & Lobster Hibachi, Seafoodon, Banango

Alcohol: Beer and wine/sake

Tab: $$

Heads-Up: Reservations recommended for teppanyaki; lunch specials available; extensive sushi menu with party trays for 3-4, 5-6 or 7-9 people; kids’ hibachi menu available; rice bowls (served with steamed rice, broccoli, carrots, green cabbage, and your choice of protein) are served at lunch

Soho Sushi and Teppanyaki, 1811 Douglas Boulevard, Roseville, 916-771-4749, 

By Lorn Randall   //  Photos by Dante Fontana

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